Bob's Ironwork
These are the steps I take in the process of forging, grinding, and putting a handle on a custom knife.
Before anything else is done, it's important to prepare the raw stock to ensure the proportions are set before being flattened out.

Seen here is an upset, where the end of the bar in hammered back into itself, making the starting material thicker. Doing this helps keep the mass located where I intend to move it prior to shaping the blade.
I work begin shaping the tang first. It starts with a shoulder before being drawn down in width and thickness. 

After the tang is shaped, I use the cross peen to thin the blade material and drive it to the required thickness.
Next, I begin the shaping the point. I draw down over the horn, using heavy blows to keep a crack from forming in the point.
After the tip has been shaped, I peen the blade to make it wider and thinner without adding to the length.
The blade is thinned out, bringing the center of the edge down to meet the heel and the point.
I finish forging the blade by evening out the profile and ensuring a uniform thickness.  Shown here is a 6 inch honesuki, a Japanese boning knife.
After the blade has been forged, a template is cut out from the initial drawing.  
After the blade has been profiled, it's heated up and quenched in oil. The hardening process makes the steel hard and better able to hold and edge, but it's also brittle.  To remove some of the brittleness, the blade is reheated to a lower temperature based on the desired function in a process called tempering.
After the heat treatment, the blade is polished. In this case, the forged texture is left on part of the blade.
After the blade is polished, the handle is attached and shaped before being polished.
The knife is complete with the blade and handle polished and oiled to keep the handle from drying out and the blade from rusting.